Engine

1985 RZ350

RZ350 - Transmission

The transmission is simply held in place by circlips or half round grooves in the engine casing. Once the casings are split the gears and gear shafts can be removed to give access to the shifting forks and the shift cam.


On the shaft with the kickstart idle gear, there is a small half round piece of metal that slots into a groove in the bearing. The larger bearing where the clutch shaft rotates has a full circlip around it and cannot be removed until the bearing is free of the casing. Remove the half round piece and hold on to it for the rebuild.


Grab the either of the transmission shafts and pull it upwards and out of the casing. It may be a little stubborn if gasket sealant from the last rebuild has contacted the bearings, but a sharp tug will get it free.



The second shaft is removed in the same way. These can only go in one way so there is no need to mark them for later. If the half round pieces of metal are left in the casings where the bearings are located, remove them and save them for later.



Once the transmission gears and shafts are out of the casing it is time to remove the shift cam. To gain access to it you will need to remove the shifter arm which passes all the way through the casing to the left hand side of the bike. To remove it simply push it through the casing. If you plan to remove and replace the small shifter oil seal, note which way it faces so the new one can be installed in the same direction.


Remove the adjuster by bending down the locking tab, loosening the slotted shaft while, and loosening the retaining nut.

Remove the spring loaded ratchet by removing the single central bolt with a socket. The spring is under only mild tension so it shouldn't go flying when the bolt is removed.

A metal clip holds the shift cam in place and is retained by two Phillips head screws. After trying with a screwdriver, I found an impact wrench is the best way to remove these screws without messing up the heads as they can be quite tight. When reassembling it is wise to use the allen head countersunk equivalent of these screws for ease in the future.



The shift forks pivot on two shafts which are retained with a circlip at one end and the transmission components that were just removed at the other. To slide the shafts out, remove the two circlips arrowed above...

...and slide the first shaft out towards the right side of the casing. These can be a little stiff. Catch and remove the shift forks as they drop off the shafts.

The same idea applies to the second shift shaft, but it only retains a single shift fork. This shaft is the closest to the front of the bike.

Once the shift shafts and shift forks are removed, the shift cam can slide out through the casing and be examined for wear.

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