RZ350 - Flywheel Side Removal
The flywheel and final drive of the bike are located under a plastic cover on the left hand side of the bike.
Using a con rod holding tool or the actual fly.
Using a con rod holding tool or the actual flywheel holder allows you to remove the central nut without the possibility of the crank turning.
The nut should come off along with a lock washer located behind it. At this piont the flywheel is free, but since it is on a conical taper it needs a flywheel remover to get it off. There really isn't a substitute for this part and it is shared with many other bikes so it should be readily available from your local motorcycle shop.
The flywheel puller is a left hand thread tool, which means it screws in by turning it counter clockwise Thread it as deep into the center of the flywheel as possible.
Use a crescent wrench (ar adjustable) to hold the body of the puller, while using a snother wrench (or socket) to screw in the central pin. When the pin reaches the end of the crank it will get harder to turn and eventually there will be a pop and the flywheel will be free.
Technically the flywheel should just pull off although you will feel some magnetic pull. For some reason I can't figure out mine felt like it was physically stuck on something. I still never worked it out, but eventually I was able to get it off the crank.
Before removing the stator plate, remove the small blue wire which is for the neutral switch. It is located just below the primary chain drive and can be disconnected by loosening the small Phillips head screw.
The stator is held to the casings with three hex/Phillips head bolts. There is no timing adjustment possible so it isn't neccessary to mark the stator position before removing it.
The stator is lifted over the crank end, and the wires can be fedd through the hole in the casing. Place the stator inside the flywheel for safe keeping.
Be sure to find the woodruff key which may have dropped out, or may be still located in the crank taper. Mine was stuck so I soft tap from a hammer and a punch freed it up.
The chain gear is held on with a single nut. Underneath the nut is a thin metal washer which is bent up to stop the nut from turning. Take a flathead screwdriver and bend it back so that the nut can be loosened.
The nut has a stepped inside face. Make a note of this for the reassembly. The bent metal washer is also splined to go on the output shaft and turn with it.
Remove the drive gear and you will see a spacer that fits within the transmission oil seal.
Finally remove the small plastic spacer on the gear shift shaft so that it isn't lost later.