Engine

1985 RZ350

RZ350 - Clutch Side Removal

The clutch side cover has the oil pump and water pump located on it and the kickstart passes through it.


The side case is held to the main casings by a series of Phillips head screws around the perimeter. This engine has had them replaced with allen head bolts which are much easier to deal with. The Phillips heads can be a real pain to remove and sometimes an impact driver is neccessary.


The first step is to remove the kickstart leg from the shaft. Simply remove the single bolt to remove it.


Even though the oil has been drained, some oil will remain in the side case. Don't be alarmed if a fair bit of oil leaks out when the case is loosened.


Looking at the engine on its side; from left to right - the kickstart shaft, the tachometer drive, the clutch, and the crank drive.


The crankshaft ends with two helical cut drive gears. The outer one drives the oil pump and the inner one drives the primary drive gear on the backside of the clutch. To loosen the nut on the end of the crank you can either use a con rod holding tool if you have the barrels off, or just stuff a rag into the gears as shown above.


There is a single washer under the nut which can be reused.


Only the single gear can be removed due to the clutch basket restricting the larger gear on the crank end.


To remove the clutch plates, equally loosen the six springs with a ratchet or wrench.


Use a Phillips head screwdriver and a wrench to remove the central adjuster..


There is a washer also located behind the adjuster.


The top of the clutch can now been removed exposing the cork and steel plates underneath.


The central adjuster can be removed from clutch shaft.


Grab all the clutch plates at once and set them aside if you plan to use the same clutch in your rebuild.



A washer behind the central clutch nut has to be bent down to allow the nut to be removed.To remove the nut you will either need to use a clutch holder, or an air powered impact driver. Without either of these you won't be able to generate the torque required without turning the clutch shaft.


The entire clutch basket can now be removed from the shaft.



Slide the spacer off the shaft and place the basket to the side. There is also a washer shown still on the sfaht which will also need to be removed.


Remove the metal plate that spans between the two engine casings. It is held in place with two Phillips head bolts.

This is a bit of a step backwards in regards to the pictures (the clutch basket is still pictured) but I thought it made sense to follow through on the clutch first.

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